Old City, Chiang Mai

The Old City is the walled, moated square at the center of Chiang Mai, with Tha Phae Gate on its east side. The district covers the bars, massage shops, clubs and temples inside and around the moat. It is compact and walkable, and the Loi Kroh bar strip is just east of it.

Backpacker-friendly and relaxed. Open-air bars around Zoe in Yellow and the moat roads fill with travelers, live music and cheap drinks, and the pace is easy. Temples and traditional massage shops sit a few steps from the pubs. It is more of a social drink than a punting night, though a few late spots do exist.

There is no named red-light hub. The listings include the Moon Muang and Kotchasarn bars, a freelancer spot called Spicy, and clubs such as Zoe in Yellow and Fabrique. Spicy is the long-running after-hours place on Chaiyaphum Road, which has changed before, so check it is open. Loi Kroh Road, east of the moat, is the proper bar strip.

Of 167 places, 80 are massage shops, 64 are bars, 11 are nightclubs, 5 are attractions, 2 are beer bars, 2 are rooftops, 2 are markets and 1 is a freelancer spot. Many of the massage listings are traditional Thai massage shops and training schools, where a massage means just that.

The Old City is more relaxed, with temples, traditional massage and backpacker bars, while Loi Kroh is the dedicated bar-and-oil-massage strip. Both sit close together on the east side. The Old City has fewer adult venues and a wider mix of visitors, which makes it a good place to start the evening.

Inside the moat, you can walk to the temples, the bars and Loi Kroh Road, and the city is compact. A drink at one of the moat-side bars is a gentle start before moving on. If you hope to bring a guest back to a guesthouse, ask about the policy first.

On foot, mainly, as the walled center is small. For longer rides, red songthaews work as shared taxis, so agree the fare with the driver before you climb in, and Grab and Bolt are simplest late. Many long-stayers rent a scooter, but ride sober and wear a helmet.

Scams and scooters. Watch for touts who say a temple is closed, and agree any rickshaw or tuk-tuk price first. Parked scooters are a common source of damage claims. Late-night spots such as Spicy change over time, so ask a bar staff member before you travel across town.